Blue Urethane Basecoat
Check out these great Blue Urethane Basecoat deals on ebay below
Blue Urethane Basecoat
 Neptune Blue Firemist URETHANE BASECOAT Car Auto Paint US $199.95 
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 Le Mans Blue Metallic URETHANE BASECOAT Car Auto Paint US $189.95
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 Frost Blue Metallic URETHANE BASECOAT Car Auto Paint Kt US $179.95
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 Electric Blue Metallic URETHANE BASECOAT Car Auto Paint US $189.95
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 Summit Paint 2 Stage 35 Low VOC Base Coat Urethane Bomber Blue Metallic 1 qt US $59.90
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 Midnight Blue Urethane Basecoat Clear coat Kit US $174.00
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 Daytona Blue Pearl URETHANE BASECOAT Car Auto Paint Kit US $199.95
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 Summit Paint 2 Stage Base Coat ONLY Urethane Blue Sky Metallic 1 Gallon Ea US $171.90
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 Summit Paint 2 Stage 35 Low VOC Base Coat Urethane Bahama Blue Metallic 1 qt US $94.90
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 Midnight Blue URETHANE BASECOAT CLEAR Car Auto Paint Kt US $189.95
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 Summit Paint 2 Stage Base Coat ONLY Urethane Blue Sky Metallic 1 Quart Ea US $59.90
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 Summit Paint 2 Stage Base Coat ONLY Urethane Bahama Blue Metallic 1 Quart Ea US $76.90
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 Summit Paint 2 Stage Base Coat ONLY Urethane Bomber Blue Metallic 1 Quart Ea US $49.90
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 Summit Paint 2 Stage Base Coat ONLY Urethane Boss Blue 1 Gallon Ea SWBC519 US $151.90
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 AUTO PAINT URETHANE BASECOAT CLEARCOAT FIJI BLUE PEARL US $225.00
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 URETHANE BASECOAT CLEARCOAT LeMANS BLUE METALIC PAINT US $174.90
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 Summit Paint 2 Stage Base Coat ONLY Urethane Bomber Blue Metallic 1 Gallon Ea US $151.90
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 Summit Paint 2 Stage Base Coat ONLY Urethane Light Blue Metalic 1 Gallon Ea US $171.90
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 Summit Paint 2 Stage Base Coat ONLY Urethane Bahama Blue Metallic 1 Gallon Ea US $191.90
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 Summit Paint 2 Stage Base Coat ONLY Urethane Light Blue Metallic 1 Quart Ea US $59.90
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Exactly what paint/primers/basecoats do I need to repaint my car?
I am buying all my paint from tcpglobal.com and I just wanted to know if I am buying all the right stuff to repaint my 95' Firebird.
SEM XXX Finish Stripper Spray Prep
Metal Prep PPG DX579
Gray 2k Urethane Primer ( I have heard apply 3-4 coats or 7-8 coats from 2 people...what would you suggest?)
Basecoat Black Solid BC-25 - to enhance my main color (# coats? I've been told 2)
Blue to Red Color Shift Pearl (# coats?I've been told 3-4)
2k Super Flow Polyurethane Clear (# coats? I've been told 2)
I just wanted to make sure I have the correct items to paint my car. (Just paint, not sand, or prep) Any nice advice or comments is appreciated on any part of the process. (I know what order to use the products)
I know what safety to use and I am an artist and have used a spray gun before so that's not a problem. I understand that painting a car takes perfection. No negative input PLEASE and Thanks!
Don't buy your paint off the Web. Find your local auto paint stores, and go talk to each of them. Find out which ones are like "go away little girl" and which ones are friendly and supportive, take you seriously, and most likely to be helpful down the road. And then buy from THEM. Buy just about everything from them, especially the high ticket stuff. Even if it's more expensive - you are not wasting money, you are paying a very low price for good advice and help when you need it. Yahoo answers is a poor substitute. The paint shop knows the products they sell.
Besides I hardly need to tell an artist the importance of supporting your community and buying local 
Now one more thing. These two-pack paints are much more dangerous than the paints you might have used in the past. Breathing overspray can drive the stuff deep into your lungs where your body is very vulnerable, and cause lifetime health problems like asthma, MCS, and other really awful immune disorders that modern medicine doesn't know how to treat. You will not heal from this stuff, it will be with you for a lifetime. You need to know how (and when) it's dangerous and how to protect yourself.
It's dangerous because these two-part paints (epoxies and urethanes) have two chemicals that react to create a third chemical. The two chemicals are hazardous (especially hardener). The final fully cured product is pretty safe, *if* you mixed it properly. Curing takes a lot longer than drying. You can't say "it's tack-free therefore I can sand it without a mask" - it's not cured and you need a mask. The documentation will tell you about cure times.
The #1 danger is inhaling the wet resins while you're spraying. The "perfect" solution to that is a pumped-in clean air supply. Yeah, like a SCUBA diver. In fact SCUBA would work real nice. Yeah I know you won't go for that - neither do I - instead I use NIOSH-approved respirator with the correct filter cartridges - again read the paint docs to know which cartridge. Those masks start at about $40 and the good ones are made by 3M. (what would painters do without 3M, I swear?) A $10 mask is inadequate.
Why are we using this dangerous stuff ? Because it gives GREAT paint jobs! Nobody wants to paint with lacquer anymore! LOL! Which is why this stuff is the only thing you can buy.
The second source of danger is sanding the stuff when it hasn't fully cured (and remember, if you mixed it wrong it'll NEVER fully cure.) You need to use a top quality dust mask, like a NIOSH respirator. Caution is cheap.
The third source of danger is just plain getting it on your skin. Use long sleeve clothing and rubber gloves, and if you do get it on your skin, stop and wipe it off with a lanolin hand cream like GoJo. Don't wash it off with solvent, that will only drive it deeper into your pores.
So... buy from people who really help you; keep it off your skin and outta your lungs; and have fun!
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